Now, if it wasn't for the woman who helped us book our trip, Drajica Lukas, a travel agent at the New Jersey-based Travel Time, we would not have come to Opatija, nor the port city of Rijeka.
Mimi, Drajika, Davor, Bob and Anthony
However, in the course of planning the trip, Bob and Drajica struck up a friendship and we agreed to meet she and her family for dinner at her son's restaurant while passing through the region.
The restaurant, Arca Fiumana, is a retired ferry boat in the Rijeka port.
Davor is the lead singer of the Croatian rock band, Fit. Founded back in 1982, it's big anthem rock. The band recorded two albums, one in '89, another in '90. But in '91 the war began. Davor and the band didn't want to lift arms against their neighbors, so they moved to Amsterdam. "But we split up because we didn't like each other," Davor said with a laugh.
Our plan was to meet Drajika, Davor and his sister, Mirjana (Mimi), for dinner that night. (Drajika had retired, and returned home to Croatia from New Jersey.) But the boat is being refurbished, with a new nightclub being put in and a dining room being redone. Instead of meeting us at another restaurant, Davor offered to cook us all dinner at his restaurant. (Which led so some funny moments when people started coming on board looking to have dinner ...)
Though with no formal culinary training, Davor sure as hell knows his way around the kitchen. Drajika asked us three questions: Do we like fish? Do we like olive oil? Do we drink wine? Why, yes, we do.
It was a five-course meal complete with Istrian white wine pairings, with one extra red, a Merlot thrown in, and homemade blueberry grappa to finish the evening off.
We began with a half-dozen quickly cooked mussels, served in their liquor and olive oil, accompanied by a Misal, an Istrian sparkling wine. Second course were sardines, lightly fried, then marinated in lemon juice and olive oil. Served with tomatoes, arugula, beans and pickled onion. Superb. Sardines were tender, flavorful, not fishy. Almost sweet.
The restaurant, Arca Fiumana, is a retired ferry boat in the Rijeka port.
Davor is the lead singer of the Croatian rock band, Fit. Founded back in 1982, it's big anthem rock. The band recorded two albums, one in '89, another in '90. But in '91 the war began. Davor and the band didn't want to lift arms against their neighbors, so they moved to Amsterdam. "But we split up because we didn't like each other," Davor said with a laugh.
Marinated Sardines
Our plan was to meet Drajika, Davor and his sister, Mirjana (Mimi), for dinner that night. (Drajika had retired, and returned home to Croatia from New Jersey.) But the boat is being refurbished, with a new nightclub being put in and a dining room being redone. Instead of meeting us at another restaurant, Davor offered to cook us all dinner at his restaurant. (Which led so some funny moments when people started coming on board looking to have dinner ...)
Though with no formal culinary training, Davor sure as hell knows his way around the kitchen. Drajika asked us three questions: Do we like fish? Do we like olive oil? Do we drink wine? Why, yes, we do.
It was a five-course meal complete with Istrian white wine pairings, with one extra red, a Merlot thrown in, and homemade blueberry grappa to finish the evening off.
We began with a half-dozen quickly cooked mussels, served in their liquor and olive oil, accompanied by a Misal, an Istrian sparkling wine. Second course were sardines, lightly fried, then marinated in lemon juice and olive oil. Served with tomatoes, arugula, beans and pickled onion. Superb. Sardines were tender, flavorful, not fishy. Almost sweet.
Next up, a shrimp and porcini mushroom risotto with langoustine. Davor says he always tests any new chefs who audition for him by having them make risotto. He first boiled the langoustines, then used the broth to make the risotto. Every forkful was perfect, the rice was cooked, firm, not sticky or soupy, the shrimp sweet and the mushrooms savory.
The fourth course was a baked sea bass wrapped around smoked tuna, served with sauteed kale, finished with olive oil. An amazing combination of flavors, with the tuna being firm, yet not chewy, despite being smoked.
All the wines were superb and complimented each of the dishes perfectly. No, I can't remember which went with which, BUT, this one stood out, an '09 Coronica Gran Malvazija:
This was served with the sea bass and smoked tuna. According to Davor, it's made with the skin of the grape still on. This is a rich, full-bodied white, rich, citrus but not tart.
Dessert was a homemade panna cotta with raspberry sauce. Served with a muscat.
The evening was perfect. Even when a torrential downpour hit. The Lukas' family were wonderful hosts. Davor is a master chef. And he and the band reformed, back in '09 and last year, they put a new album out.
When in Rijeka, go to this restaurant. It would be a crime to miss it.
The fourth course was a baked sea bass wrapped around smoked tuna, served with sauteed kale, finished with olive oil. An amazing combination of flavors, with the tuna being firm, yet not chewy, despite being smoked.
OK, there were a few wines served ...
All the wines were superb and complimented each of the dishes perfectly. No, I can't remember which went with which, BUT, this one stood out, an '09 Coronica Gran Malvazija:
This was served with the sea bass and smoked tuna. According to Davor, it's made with the skin of the grape still on. This is a rich, full-bodied white, rich, citrus but not tart.
Dessert was a homemade panna cotta with raspberry sauce. Served with a muscat.
The evening was perfect. Even when a torrential downpour hit. The Lukas' family were wonderful hosts. Davor is a master chef. And he and the band reformed, back in '09 and last year, they put a new album out.
When in Rijeka, go to this restaurant. It would be a crime to miss it.
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